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A café with British pub grub… In Delhi

Forgetful Elephant

By Anoothi Vishal
In the gastronomic universe, French food is revered, Spanish seen as unutterably chic, Italian as pop but British as mostly crap. Of course, it’s an unfortunate reputation. British pub staples are wholesome, wonderful comfort food that will fill your stomach and gladden your heart while (usually) not costing the earth. Besides, for those of us who have grown up on Enid Blyton and Agatha Christie, old England exerts a definite pull.

What’s on the menu? From roast pork ribs in apple sauce to Guinness and steak pie, bangers and mash, Irish stew and kedgeree. The menu is elaborate and also includes a chicken tikka burger. Inexplicably, there’s fondue too, cheese and chocolate. What we liked All the food that we sampled: The Guinness and Steak Pie (Rs 325), the Meat Pie (Rs 325) and Irish Stew (Rs 325). Our best choice was undoubtedly the Cheddar, English Mustard and Ham Stuffed Chicken Breast (Rs 325) with mashed green peas on the side. Also, charming was the corner that we sat in — high-backed sofas with floral tapestry facing a faux fireplace. I could just imagine Mrs Marple contemplating village life here.

What we didn’t like Items not available: including the Cornish Pasty and the Bread and Butter Pudding. Also, the place has an Indian menu to cater to a larger market which dilutes the concept. The bar area on top has a slight air of disrepair. Perhaps they should not try and turn this into a generic Delhi bar and instead stick to the British pub concept.
Meal for 2 Rs 1,500
M Block Market, Greater Kailash-1, New Delhi
TEL: 9717294441

(The review appeared in the Times of India Good Food supplement)

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